This time was a quick call from wing man Felipe "Elixir" Arias who told me we got a ride on a plane to bocas. I oviously said, fu@#R lets do it! The swell indicated some size on the net 4-7 ft. However, this never really happened! poopsie! some times, no good light, some times the light was good but the tide was too hight so the barrels were not opening right but right now it seems like things are getting better. I will extend my trip for 1 more day! Here is a slide of what went on... Still looking for a specific shot I have not gotten... I might have had too many expectations about the swell...
Here are some words about EXPECTATIONS:
"When you are attached to an outcome, you expect things to happen at a certain time in a certain way. But when it does not happen at the expected time or in the expected manner, then what results is a feeling of fear. Having expectations about how your desires should manifest will produce negative feelings when your expectations are not met. That is why it is better to act on your intention without expectations about the when and how it manifests"
Bocas del Toro Surf 2010
Panama Surf Spot with Chris Culpen
Last week was one of those weeks when you just want to snap out of "real time reality". I cannot say that reality for me is mostly bad cuz its not, its usually pretty dam good! However, looking at news about Haiti, checking out a new website "vbs.tv" on Liberia's reality, going thru some mayor personal changes, I desperately started looking for a surfer to shoot on a now spontaneous surf trip. I just can't shoot the birds and fish around me if I took off on my own, there is no one there!
As I drove that desperate day around the city, I decided to stop by my shaper friend Juan Jimene's surf shop "www.BoaSurfBoards.com". A guy I met before new year pops up from Juan's shop. Chris Culpen who now helps out Juan on surf board manufacturing was happy to leave the city and ended up coming along for a short escape to paradise. Once there we had a day of choppy surf and the followed to a perfect 3-4 ft session along with Fello a local surfer from the area and friend.
Within the trip I learned that Cris had been ripping professionally since the 80's, manufacturing boards with Tim Patterson, Matt Biolos and sure has not forgotten how to surf. A funny character who can still try some flips on a surf board and me a young white indian from the Latin American bushes showed him some traditional meals in one of the paradises of this world. Rice, Lentils, Fish and Salad for $2.50, no cell phone signal, and empty waves, what else do you need when you have perfect uncrowded surf and all mentioned above?
Here are a few shots of the relaxing trip:
Surf Snap
The surf snap is one of the basic moves in the sport of surfing. Once you have managed to paddle / drop with confidence, rip with enough speed to make smooth turns, it is most likely that you will start trying to hit the lip or "tap that sh@T!".
One of the tips I can offer to people is to focus on going down the drop straight down, then turn while looking straight to the lip of the wave in a "U" motion, while turning make sure to keep your hands parallel to your "invisible line or turn". Some people make the mistake of looking at the spray they left loosing momentum, you wanna keep your eyes in track along with your head. (your eyes lead your head, your head leads your shoulders, your shoulders lead your body).
I actually learned to follow my eyes as a kid ridding BMX and eating shi@$ trying 360's on a rap. It wasn't until I learned to follow my eyes that I was able to pull them off!
Here is a sample of how to do a surf snap by Diego "Bobo" Salgado.
Surf Expo
My first surf expo pictures are here! finally done after 12 months of pushing this, my surfer friend and artist Jaime Noia pushed me into it by asking and then putting me on his event flyer. I had been saving surf photo files for over a year that said: "to print" and never did. The truth is... I thought it was going to be risky, Panamanians are spoiled and I contributed with that by giving pictures for free for over 1 year. I mean, I do this for fun and dont want to change it! However, it would be great if I could improve my equipment after this first camera and housing pays it self off with some sales...traveling also costs $...
The surf population here is small and this means only one thing, "the industry is small". Due to this matter, I did not expect a lot of people and I did it on a Monday! Mondays are the least important day of the week for an event or restaurant. I still did it "to do it"!
Who ever showed up, I thank! who ever did not, thanks! The Surf Expo 2009 was great, showing pictures of empty lineups, and mind filled with great memories was simply good!
Thanks to Ricardo J. Alfaro (Team Hurley) who printed my shots! Looking forward to do this
every year and ready to project my self for a Surf Expo 2010!
www.JaimeNoiaSurfArt.com
This one is for Friendship
Russell Mcclanan's best friend needs help, please watch the video. Help would be great for research.
Snap Sequence by ???
After meeting Brandon Bowden "Neighbor in Manhattan Beach" I was able to meet with some Body Glove people. I did not get to meet them directly, only Bryce White who was responsible for their water shot photography. Bryce is a good guy with a good vibe as well. Here is a sequence of a snap with style. I will try to get some words from the contributor on step by step on how to do this.
Aerial Sequence
Once you jump into a new surf break its always a wonder to see whats the vibe of the people. As a photographer its always good to connect with people and surfers in general, without them cooperating, is harder to capture the moment. Here is a sequence of Jeff Pera's cooperation. Many thanks Jeff and keep the good vibes!
